Feast w/ Nancy Silverton
The flavorful bread at La Brea Bakery, the savory pasta at Campanile, the luring Monday mozzarella night at Jar, and the tantalizing scents coming from Pizzeria and Osteria Mozza, have all been touched upon, crafted, and developed by the masterful Nancy Silverton. I had the pleasure of sitting down with the celebrated chef at her well-known enterprise Osteria Mozza, to delve into her many ventures, which lead her to the success she is today.
Most chefs I’ve met have told me that their initial introduction to the love of food started in their very own kitchen, watching their mother’s prepare meals over a hot stove. However, that wasn’t the case for Nancy. Even though her mom would produce very delectable meals, she was not by her side with gleaming eyes, watching her every cut, chop, and mince. In fact, Nancy’s love of food was not provoked until her years at college.
Her choice to delve into the culinary world was provoked by a handsome student in the culinary program at her university. The initial introduction led her to cooking vegetarian dishes in her dorm room becoming a hit with the students. In the moment of concocting one of her very popular vegetarian meals, she realized that cooking was what she truly wanted to do.
In the 70’s, Nancy attended Le Cordon Bleu in London. To her surprise the majority of the student chefs were women. Her time there was very informative, and she enjoyed the experience and vast knowledge she gained while there. After graduation, she went to apprentice in Northern California, where nothing compared to the fresh ingredients abundant in that region. In spite of this, Nancy realized that she needed to return to Los Angeles, to truly delve into working at some high profile restaurants.
In 1979, Nancy got a job at Michael’ restaurant in Santa Monica, definitely the booming restaurant for its time. The only position that was readily available was pastry chef. Not Nancy’s immediate interest, she took the position regardless, since Michael’s was a prominent place to be. Also, It was one of the only restaurants at the time that didn’t just make deserts, but created them, and Nancy learned this first hand from Michael McCarty himself. After her run at Michael’s, Nancy took on a new venture as a chef at Spago’s restaurant, where she met her husband Mark. That was a tremendous experience for her, including where she worked for 21/2 years, becoming pregnant with her first child.
Both Nancy and Mark, outside of their love for food, loved to travel frequently, and one place in particular that they loved to visit was New York, which is where they actually moved to for a brief period. They lived in New York for a year, working at a restaurant called Maxwell’s, tired and exhausted day in and day out, and at the time, with 2 kids in tow. Ideas were in the works to possibly open a place in Soho, however they decided against it, and left New York for a refresh in Rome. It was in Rome, where they lived, and learned what the true quality of food meant, and where they discovered how much they loved fresh ingredients, and the art of Italian cuisine.
In the 80’s they returned back to Los Angeles, and Nancy and Mark were looking for a great place to open of their own, that Nancy mentioned, had “great bones.” After much search, they found a Deco space and opened the restaurant Campanile. Nancy at the time wanted to perfect the art of bread making, and took a bread making class, soon thereafter, adjacent to Campanile, La Brea Bakery came to be. After a long 15 years, her marriage started to terminate, and Nancy decided to sell her share of both, Campanile and La Brea Bakery, and move on.
Well-known chef, Suzanne Tracht approached her to collaborate with her at Jar restaurant. Nancy decided to partake, and started a Mozzarella night on Monday’s, which is a huge hit till today. However, Nancy was still on the prowl for something new and exciting. A long time acquaintance of hers, Mario Batali asked her to go to New York and work with him at his restaurant Del Posto. Unfortunately, as much as Nancy would have loved to be in New York again, she wasn’t able to just pick up and leave with 2 kids settled in LA. She asked the same question to Mario, “Why don’t you open something with me here in LA?” Mario turned her down at the time, due to the fact that he wasn’t very impressed with, shall I say, lack of restaurants Los Angeles offered at the time.
Looking for inspiration, Nancy went to Italy where she has a place in Umbria, and ran into acclaimed chef Jeremiah Towers, who filled her in about an amazing place called Umbica, in Rome. He went on raving to Nancy that she had to pay a visit to this place, and bring the concept to Los Angeles somehow. Apparently, the owner of Umbica was enthused after a trip to Japan, where he fell in love with Sushi culture, and translated the concept back in Italy. He opened Umbica, a delectable space, which served up antipasti and mozzarella, with barrels of fresh mozzarella, right in the center of the place, fresh, and ready to eat.
Nancy returned to Los Angeles renewed, refreshed, and new exactly what she wanted to do next. She called up Mario Batali, and explained to him that she wanted to open a mozzarella bar, and if he would be interested in joining forces, and opening up a pizzeria along with it. Mario was completely sold on the idea, and ready to get things started asap. After much planning, Melrose and Highland is now home to the empire known as Pizzeria Mozza, and Osteria Mozza.
