Conversation, rare: Jennifer Stewart
The few remaining watering holes, Formosa Café has had its doors open since 1939. The late Jimmy Bernstein inherited the space from his brother in a poker match in the 1920’s, and later, upon a chance meeting with Lem Quon at Grand Star in China Town, conceived of opening a Chinese restaurant just east of United Artists Studios, now known as “the Lot” on Santa Monica Blvd. Originally where Mary Pickford had her production offices, Formosa quickly became a favorite hang-out for Hollywood’s golden children, icons, and hangers on from Elvis Presley to Humphrey Bogart. Since the late1930’s, Formosa has grown from operating in a Red Car trolley where diners could have a drink, cash a check and even place a bet while eating, to a distinct brick red building, it’s name sprawling in a classic white cursive. Formosa remains home to the memories of legendary off-screen romances and late nights after cinema magic. It is this nostalgic air of “old Hollywood” that brings the landmark such a loyal patronage amongst the industry. Currently under ownership of Lem Quon’s grandson Vince Jung, Formosa remains a storybook full of memories and secrets untold. I recently came across Jennifer Stewart. Not only is Jennifer Vince’s wife, she is a successful interior designer who has not only partaken in the countless stories that have come though Formosa, but has savored the essence of the rare establishment that still contains its true original bones.
When you first met Vince how did you react when you found out he owned Formosa?
Well, I actually met Vince at Formosa, friends who worked there brought me in. I had been going to Formosa for years though before meeting him in 2000.
Were there any culinary influences in your life growing up?
My parents were from New York City, and I think having grown up there, the exposure to world cuisine, they really expanded my culinary experiences even as a kid. Friends would come over and ask what new and weird thing the Stewart family was eating.
Have you participated in any changes or any part of Formosa?
I love the deck and think it is such a rare thing in LA, and I told Vince he must have happy hour on Friday nights up there. I’m hoping that a sponsored music/DJ night comes about this fall.
Are there any drinks or dishes named after you?
Sadly no… hey Vince…I have another idea for Formosa. He just loves that.
How do you think food and design cross?
I think they are very relatable, there is a passion in both. People who are involved in both fields are very devoted and find true joy in creating something that influences and touches people’s lives. We expose people to new ideas and tastes. Vince likes to think Formosa is LA’s living room. People go there to feel at home, relaxed, and catch up with friends. I create that feeling for people in their own homes.
Have you added your design flair to the establishment?
Well, it is an institution and a time warp. Not really allowed to touch. I helped out a little on the deck. The next project is Vince’s office.
Where do you see Formosa heading? Plans for the future?
As my husband says, that place is an entity unto itself. He feels he is just the guardian. However, in the near future I would love to see more special events there. I would also love to see people in LA return to an appreciation of visiting an establishment because they enjoy being there, they stay all night, they are friends with the bartenders, you know it’s “their place.” I guess what I’m trying to say is I want people to know how cool Formosa is, what it stands for.
Do you think your daughter would want to take over the families business? Any pressure?
No pressure, although I would hope she would lean towards design of some sort.
